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Gunsmithing

Work Description
Price
Accuracy Testing
Fire 4x five shot groups at 100 yards from a Lead Sled. Does not include ammo.
 
$100.00
Accurizing/Blueprinting
Re-cut receiver threads to be square to the action, true the front of the receiver, true the bolt face, lap the bolt locking lugs for maximum contact and reset headspace.
 
$300.00
Barrel Break-in
Breaking in a barrel is a method of removing the rough edges in a barrel in a new barrel (caused by the machining process) that will shave off and hold copper jacket material. Explained in detail below. Ammo not included.
$300.00
 
Barrel Installation
This rate applies to most guns. May be higher or lower for particular models.  
$325.00
 
Barrel Flutes 
Accumark style flutes are standard; others may be available depending on barrel contour. We cannot currently do spiral barrel fluting, but may be able to order a pre-fluted barrel done in this manner.
$325.00
 
Bead Blast Finish
Removes shine from stainless barrels.
$200.00
 
Blueing
Traditional hot gun blueing.
 
$250.00
Bolt Handle Extension
Extends the bolt handle past the scope, creating a larger, longer handle for better leverage and cycling speed.  Includes materials, machining and finishing.
 
$150.00
Bore Sight
Process of aligning the bore (center of the barrel) of a gun with the scope on your firearm.
 
$10.00
Cerakote Finish 
Tough, baked on ceramic finish. Very durable, highly resistant to weathering. Several colors are available; this price is for a whole rifle. Smaller jobs may be less.
$350.00
Cleaning         
Disassemble firearm, degrease and re-oil. Clean and polish barrel and action. Apply rust inhibitor. Clean and polish stock. Includes deep copper removal and rust inhibitor.
$60-$95
 
Cut and Crown Barrel
Cut barrel to specified length and crown, or simply re-crown.
 
$140.00
Drill and Tap
Price is per hole. Most guns will require four holes for scope mounting.
 
$50.00
Flute Bolt Body (Spiral) 
Cut spiral flutes into the bolt body. Can be done on most guns.
 
$275.00
Flute Bolt Body (Straight)
Cut straight flutes into the bolt body. Can be done on most guns.
 
$125.00
Function Testing
We will fire sufficient rounds to ensure rifle operates safely and correctly, including magazine functions. Ammo not included.
 
$75.00
Glass Bedding
Perfect fit of action to the stock bed, eliminates micro movement between firings. Dampens action and barrel vibration when firing. Holds stable sighting in. Glass Bedding rifles will increase accuracy, sometimes by up to 150 % in group size. Extra bedding compound to stiffen other areas of a gun, such as the fore end of a Savage Axis, may increase price.
 
$150.00
Lapp Scope Rings 
When the utmost accuracy is sought and scopes are expected to remain sighted, lapping rings ensures a strong, solid contact between the scope and mounts. Optics mounted in misaligned rings often do not track properly when adjusted, and zero retention can also be problematic.  Lapping aids accuracy, helps the optic work properly and can prolong its service life.
 
$100.00
Muzzle Brake Cap
Removable, knurled cap to protect threads when muzzle brake is removed.
 
$80.00
Muzzle Brake & Installation
Greatly reduces recoil, up to 50% (The actual effectiveness depends on the cartridge for which the rifle is chambered) Recoil is caused by the expanding powder gasses that are pushing the bullet and must exit the barrel. Muzzle brakes reduce recoil by diverting part of these gasses to the side so that they do not add to the rearward recoil.  Pictures of available brakes below.
 
$300-
$400
Powdercoat Finish
Tough, baked on finish, highly resistant to weathering. Several colors available, this price is for a whole rifle. Smaller jobs may be less.
 
$350.00
Remove Stuck Cartridge
Remove a stuck cartridge that has had the case head broken off.
Remove a live round.
$40.00
$80.00
$100.00
Rechamber
Rechambering to calibre of your choice. Please note that we cannot currently rebore barrels, and that this price is dependent on us having an appropriate reamer available.
 
$250.00
Scope Data Collection
Records elevation, temperature and muzzle velocity. Set zero on the scope. Calculate long range ballistics. All the information required to order a custom scope turret. Does not include ammo. 
 
$300-$350
Huskemaw Custom Turret
Cost of only building a turret once data collection is complete, or if you’ve done your own data collection, or need a second turret with different altitude and temperature numbers.
 
$99.95
Custom Turret- Vortex, Nightforce, Zeiss
Cost of building a turret once data collection is complete, or if you’ve done your own data collection, or need a second turret with different altitude and temperature numbers.
 
$225-$275
Scope Level Installation
Install level, level scope and boresight. Cost of level not included in price.
$50.00
 
Scope Mounting
Install required bases and rings, level scope and boresight. Supplies not included in price.
If scope is purchased from Backcountry Supplies there is no charge.
  
 
$40.00
 
 
Scope- Sight In
Sight in the scope and set zero at your preferred distance. Ammo not included.
 
$75.00
Stock Finish 
Uses an extremely durable epoxy paint. Several styles and colors available.
 
$200- $350 
Teflon Finish
A water resistant finish. Price is for complete rifles, smaller jobs may be less.
 
$300.00
Timney Trigger Installation
Price does not include cost of the Timney Trigger.
$50.00
 
Prices Are Subject To Change
  
 
 
Why would you have to clean or break in a new rifle barrel? 
 
All rifles should be cleaned before shooting.  Rifles are shipped with packing oil or grease, which needs to be removed before you start shooting.  It’s not likely that you will damage your rifle if you don’t, but you will wonder why your rifle is not grouping and why it fouls  so badly.
 
The first few shots fired from your rifle are some of the most important shots that you will ever fire.  When a rifle barrel is made the rifling and chamber are cut with buttons and reamers. These tools will leave small burrs or cut marks inside the barrel. Breaking in a barrel is a method of removing the rough edges in a barrel that will shave off and hold copper jacket material. If the jacket material is allowed to embed itself in these pores it will in essence allow a copper lining to coat the rifling.  A copper laden barrel will wear unevenly and grab at random points causing a whole myriad of consistency issues.  It can cause velocity spreads and inconsistent flight characteristics. Also, the copper that is stuck in these pores will only get harder to clean.
 
If you end up with small holes in the barrel, these holes will start to strip brass or copper from the bullets.  The holes will also fill up with carbon from the burned powder.  The carbon will start to rust or corrode in the barrel.  The corrosion will make the holes bigger which will strip more brass from the bullets and so on.  What you end up with is a nasty cycle which leads to an inaccurate rifle or one that will have a shortened life. 
 
If broken in properly a barrel will not foul as bad and will clean up fast.
The amount of rounds it takes to break-in a rifle will vary from rifle to rifle.
There are not a set number of rounds that you will need to shoot for each step of the break in. Let the barrel talk to you. 
 
It is recommended that you use copper jacketed factory ammo for break-ins.
Clean the oil and powder residue out of the barrel with a commercial bore cleaner with ammonia content.
Shoot 1 round.  After firing each cartridge, use a good bore cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove fouling from the barrel using only a rod and soaked patch.  Many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove (with ammonia) before firing the next shot. This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon). We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it (or a brush) since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated. 
 
Let the barrel cool between each round fired.  Repeat this step (usually between 3 and 10 times) until the cleaning process drops from about 5 or 6 patches down to 2 or 3.
 
Following the initial step, you may then shoot 3 rounds and clean in the same manner as step 1. Repeat until the cleaning process drops from 5 or 6 patches, down to 2 or 3 (Usually 2-5 times). Remember to allow the barrel to cool between shots.
 
Fire five shots, and then clean your barrel and you're done.
 
This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed. In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed due to the manufacturing process. To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will cause unnecessary throat erosion and impede the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory.  It will have a tendency to make the barrel “walk” or “climb” when it heats up in the future.  We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot high and then “walk” to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel.  If you take the time in the beginning and do it right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future.